Drooper Mounts

Why Droopers?

In a nut shell, or anywhere else, gravity Sucks. At Mac1 we make our own guns and one of the goals is to make sure the consumer can get on target with the scope he is using when he uses straight rings as manufactured. When we cut our rails or make our Picitinny bases the droop is incorporated into the rail so mounts can be used that are parallel to the rail top. The rail bottom has about 25 minutes of angle built in so the scope winds up looking where the gun hits with turrets centered. To insure the customers who buy the guns we don’t make cope with this misalignment they have a choice of bending the barrel up to eliminate the barrel droop so the scope won't run out of vertical adjustment or fitting rings that have been cut to compensate for the misalignment. I have found no adverse effects from bent barrels as they can still be accurate.

Your choice is to bend your barrel up or buy a Mac1 Drooper mount. If you fit most of the adjustable mounts it will be changing zero until you throw it away. The exception is the Beeman adjustable and it is strong but rather high. On a magnum springer you need to get serious about strong mounts. We can machine the mount by the amount of droop you need. Usually 20 minutes of adjustment is enough to get you zeroed but we can put another 10 minutes in for good measure so you're using the middle of the scopes adjustment at 10 and 50 yards on the typical springer.

Magnum Springers kick. More power is more kick in most cases. (Need super strong Mounts).
They are long range guns that can hunt to 75 yards. (Need high Mag scopes with big lenses)
They generally shoot in bigger (slower) calibers. (Trajectory is more extreme) The High mag big objective scopes are heavy, they rarely have much Adjustability and have to use high rings to clear receiver. (Thus we need Strong High rings with Droop Compensation) Barrel to receiver alignments are generally in droop or straight at best. Even if the barrel was inline with the receiver the minutes required to use the above gun at 60 yards would be about 30 minutes with average weight .22 Cal. going 800FPS. In fact pretty much everything needs 30 minutes to use the scope mid adjustment as the manufacturer intended.


30 minutes~30" @ 100yds~15" @ 50yds~10" @ 33yds~7.5" @ 25yds~3" @ 10yds~1.5 "@ 5yds.

This is how low most (85%) airguns shoot at 10 yards (2.5-3”) if the optics are centered with straight mounts. It is also the approximate point of impact adjustment at 50yards from the average medium mount height 800 fps gun. Some guns need more droop but 85% of what we see needs 30 minutes. The lower scope needs less. The barrel drooping gun needs more. We cut rings at 20, 30 40 and 50 minutes of droop. We try to stock a selection of mounts so we can supply from stock 90% of the time. We started Cutting Picitinny Mounts with Droop recently as well as the Airgun/Rimfire type rings which we have done for decades. We have both 1” and 30 MM split rings and one piece mounts in 1” & 30MM as well as Picitinny 1” and 30MM with Droop. We use Leapers or Accushot mounts for our Droop inventory and those are very robust rings.

What is a Drooper?

We basically line bore a new angle to the scope rings so they look where the gun shoots. This is compensating for gravity, scope height, and for the dreaded droopy barrel. To handle the needs of Springers we always recommend 1-Piece mounts or at least a rod between split rings so they share the clamping and stopping task.

Custom droop and/or custom windage corrections are available for most 1" and 30mm rings. The mounts are recut with a specific ring spread that you can deviate from slightly but you don't want to tweak the scope tube so it is best to stay within 1/2 inch of machined ring spread. We can do split rings with custom ring spread, windage and droop adjusted for most applications. The standard is a 4" ring spread.

When mounting a scope on a PCP like the Career you would think the gun doesn't need droop but you would be wrong. Most need a scope that can be used at much farther distances than anything else because it has the most hunting range we have seen. Any scope twisted to within a couple of clicks of the adjustment max cannot work as effectively as it could midpoint. When you have a gun that can hit a silver dollar at 100 yards why squander its potential by using straight mounts. The problem has always been determining how much droop you need. There are certain procedures you need to go through with straight mounts to determine the spec.

How do I know how much Droop?

Mount the scope with straight rings. No shims or adjustments. Center the scope adjustments (count clicks and divide by two). Shoot it at 10 yards. Tell me how low or high & left or right the gun hits compared to where you aimed. Do it twice to verify. Always include this info with your order along with the type of gun (make and model) and the type of scope (Brand/Mag/objective size). That info allows us to make mounts perfect for your gun or select from stock a mount appropriate for your application. This is a limited production thing I do because I see the need. It is the way to do it as far as I'm concerned. Mounting scopes can be a real pain to the novice and even the informed can get stumped. Experience has led me here. It saves a lot of time, dollars, aggravation, and hassle to do it right the first time.

Custom Droop

Mac-1 can take any 1" or 30MM tube scope mount you own and for a fee we can cut custom droop and windage for you. In order to figure out exactly what your requirements are you want to center the adjustments of the scope and shoot at the middle of an 8X11 sheet of paper at 10 yards with a straight mount. We need to know how much low/high/left/right it shoots and we can cut your mounts or a set we supply to compensate for your scope to barrel misalignment. It is always a good idea to make sure the barrel is straight and the gun is operating properly with a proper breech seal etc. before modifying mounts for a specific gun.

Mounting Instructions

The compensation for barrel droop and trajectory needs is something that Mac-1 specializes in. We provide beefy mounts so the mount problems are minimized. Always make sure there is no interference between the scope/mounts/gun that will result in a stress to the scope. To mount any of these Droopers install the rings on the scope groove and make sure that the clamping feet are as vertical as possible and they will tighten up when snagged. Leave them loosely tightened. The feet of all these mounts can be flipped over to allow a different range of dovetails each way. For non-stopped mounts on a recoiling rifle it is a good idea to clean up the base and dovetails with alcohol and then locktite (640 sleeve retainer) between the dovetail of the gun and the base of the mount. Align the stophole(s) of the gun with the stop screw(s) of the mount(s) and screw the stop screw(s) down into the stop hole but do not tighten. Make sure the mount is not being held up by the stop screw. Pull the mount(s) to the rear and tighten the base clamping screws firmly. Do not make them squeak. Run the stop screw in to the bottom of the stop hole without over tightening. If a problem with the scope slipping in the rings has been experienced you can clean & apply 640 locktite between the scope tube and clamping surface of the rings. Place the scope in the rings, align the crosshairs to vertical/horizontal position, and set the scope for the most comfortable eye relief. You may be able/need to change stop holes in the gun if it has multiple holes to achieve acceptable eye relief. Tighten the screws of the straps evenly to avoid the crosshairs twisting. Do not over tighten. If they squeak you are going over the limit. Sight gun in. If you can't sight the gun in put the scope in the middle of its range of adjustment and see where the gun shoots @ 10 yards. This information will be needed to figure out what it will take for your application if you aren't in the 85%.