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Mac1 Droopers You can also add longer barrels from the 2260 Crosman to any of the guns with shorter barrels. With accuracy and power prep done an 18" barrel will develop over 625 fps in .22. These guns all shoot a lot harder with .22 barrels. For the fans of FPS .177 long barrels can also be fitted. They will shoot faster than .22's but not as hard because the .177 used in CO2 guns is considerably less efficient than the .22 pellet. Longer barrels cost $15. When upgrading, Europeans are used to putting a decent target type peep sight on, rather than an expensive scope. Without "droop", most Target type Peep-sites are too high, and couldn't work unless a correspondingly high front sight is mounted as well! The incorporation of "barrel droop" solves these problems neatly. Americans and Brits more often desire to fit a scope, so they run into the problem of how to cope with this misalignment. I often simply bend the barrel up to eliminate the barrel droop so the scope won't run out of vertical adjustment. I have found no adverse effects from doing it. Bent barrels can still be accurate.
Magnum Springers kick. More power is more kick in most cases. (Need super strong Mounts). 30 minutes=30" @ 100yds=15" @ 50yds=10" @ 33yds=7.5" @ 25yds=3" @ 10yds=1.5 "@ 5yds. Some guns need more droop but 85% of what we see needs 30 minutes. The lower scope needs less. The barrel drooping gun needs more. What really amazes me is the proliferation of adjustables that don't really understand the dynamics of Springers and build you something that will throw the scope tube into the structure of the mount as a stressed member. Loading of the scope tube when the rings want to pivot around an axis by mount design is an extremely bad idea and cannot work on anything that kicks. I don't care what they make it out of or what they glue it with. Scope tubes are not structure. They are precision and need to be supported by mounts not loaded by them. The one I saw that didn't do that was the B-square but it has other issues with overcomplicated mounting & stopping etc. The Burris rings seem to have promise but not stopping both rings also loads the scope tube because the rear ring will be the only ring stopped. That equals stress to tube unless you can really nail the front ring down so it doesn't slide. Loctite 640 does a wonderful job of that. A great aid when mounting split rings. We basically line bore a new angle to the scope rings so they look where the gun shoots. This is compensating for gravity, scope height, and for the dreaded droopy barrel. To handle the needs of Springers I decided to finally get the rings to share the stopping load by connecting them with a tie rod. The rear ring has a solid stop screw that you screw down into a receiver stop hole. The rod connecting the front of the rear ring with the back of the front ring is oil blued steel and allows both rings to gain stopping power from the guns scope stop hole. The mounts are called HTRD. High Tie Rod Drooper. Machined with from 20-50 minutes of droop in off the shelf items. When the application is a non recoiling gun the same mount can be supplied with no rod or stop. Custom droop and/or custom windage corrections are available for most 1" and 30mm rings. The mounts are recut with a specific ring spread that you can deviate from slightly but you don't want to tweak the scope tube so it is best to stay within 1/2 inch of intended ring spread. We can do split rings with custom ring spread, windage and droop adjusted for most applications. The standard is a 4" ring spread. Recently Sportsmatch started producing a one-piece high mount with four screws per strap. This will be a little heavier and a little more expensive than the HTRD but it is the strongest mount you can get in a high. We recently started offering all our Drooper services for 30mm rings and one piece mounts. When mounting a scope on a PCP like the Career you would think the gun doesn't need droop but you would be wrong. Most need a scope that can be used at much farther distances than anything else because it has the most hunting range we have seen. Any scope twisted to within a couple of clicks of the adjustment max cannot work as effectively as it could midpoint. When you have a gun that can hit a silver dollar at 100 yards why squander its potential by using straight mounts. The problem has always been determining how much droop you need. There are certain procedures you need to go through with straight mounts to determine the spec. Mount the scope with straight rings. No shims or adjustments. Center the scope adjustments (count clicks and divide by two). Shoot it at 10 yards. Tell me how low or high & left or right the gun hits compared to where you aimed. Do it twice to verify. Always include this info with your order along with the type of gun (make and model) and the type of scope (Brand/Mag/objective size). That info allows us to make mounts perfect for your gun or select from stock a mount appropriate for your application. This is a limited production thing I do because I see the need. It is the way to do it as far as I'm concerned. Mounting scopes can be a real pain to the novice and even the informed can get stumped. Experience has led me here. It saves a lot of time, dollars, aggravation, and hassle to do it right the first time. 1" HTRD-30 High Tie-Rod Drooper 2-pc. set of high rings w/four screws per strap and two screws per clamp. The rear mount has a solid scope stop that will fit in the rear stop hole of most any springer scope base. The ring spread is 4" and is fixed by a blued steel rod connecting the front and rear mount so they can share the stopping load in severe recoiling Springers. It will clear most objectives up to 56mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and all the 50mm's when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The standard droop compensation is (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Also available in 20, 40, and 50 minute versions. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $59.95. 1" HD-30 2-piece High. Same as above with no rod or stop. Costs $30 in straight form. $44.95 drooped. 1" HD-30 1-piece High 1-piece four screw per strap/four screw per clamp mounts. Costs $56 in straight form. We drill and tap the mount for a solid scope stop that will fit in the rear stop hole of most any springer scope base. It will clear most objectives up to 56mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and all the 50mm's when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The droop compensation is standard (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $74.95. 1" DR30 2-piece Medium 2-pc. set of medium height rings w/four screws per strap and two screws per clamp. The mounts have a roll pin stop in the rear mount and can handle the recoil of any springer below 12 ft. lbs. when properly mounted. The ring spread is 4" plus or minus a ?" . It will clear objectives up to 40mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and most others except the Trophy series Bushnells when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The droop compensation is standard (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $39.95. 1" DR30 1-piece Medium 1-piece four screw per strap/four screw per clamp mounts. Costs $45 in straight form. We replace the stock roll pin with solid scope stop that will fit in the rear stop hole of most any springer scope base. It will clear objectives up to 40mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and most others except the Trophy series Bushnells when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The droop compensation is standard (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $59.95. 30MM DR30 1-piece High 1-piece four screw per strap/four screw per clamp mounts. Costs $95 in straight form. We drill and tap the mount for a solid scope stop that will fit in the rear stop hole of most any springer scope base. It will clear most objectives up to 56mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and all the 50mm's when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The droop compensation is standard (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $110 drooped. 30MM HTRD-30 High Tie-Rod Drooper 2-pc. set of high rings w/four screws per strap and two screws per clamp. Costs $41 in straight form. The rear mount has a solid scope stop that will fit in the rear stop hole of most any springer scope base. The ring spread is 4" and is fixed by a blued steel rod connecting the front and rear mount so they can share the stopping load in severe recoiling Springers. It will clear most objectives up to 56mm no problem on guns with raised dovetail bases and all the 50mm's when used on a gun with scope grooves cut in the receiver. The standard droop compensation is (3" @ 10 yards) or 30 minutes of angle. Custom droop and windage adjustments available. Cost is $69.95. 30MM DR30 2-Piece High Same as above with no rod or stop. $41 in straight form. $54.95 drooped. 30MM DR30 2-Piece High Extended Eye Relief. Cost is $85 in straight form. $100 drooped. Mac-1 can take any 1" or 30MM tube scope mount you own and for a $20 labor fee we can cut custom droop and windage for you. In order to figure out exactly what your requirements are you want to center the adjustments of the scope and shoot at the middle of an 8X11 sheet of paper at 10 yards with a straight mount. We need to know how much low/high/left/right it shoots and we can cut your mounts or a set we supply to compensate for your scope to barrel misalignment. It is always a good idea to make sure the barrel is straight and the gun is operating properly with a proper breech seal etc. before modifying mounts for a specific gun. The compensation for barrel droop and trajectory needs is something that Mac-1 specializes in. 85% of the guns need 30 minutes of droop. We provide beefy mounts so the mount problems are minimized. Always make sure there is no interference between the scope/mounts/gun that will result in a stress to the scope. To mount any of these Droopers install the rings on the scope groove and make sure that the clamping feet are as vertical as possible and they will tighten up when snagged. Leave them loosely tightened. The feet of all these mounts can be flipped over to allow a different range of dovetails each way. For non-stopped mounts on a recoiling rifle it is a good idea to clean up the base and dovetails with alcohol and then locktite (640 sleeve retainer) between the dovetail of the gun and the base of the mount. Align the stophole(s) of the gun with the stop screw(s) of the mount(s) and screw the stop screw(s) down into the stop hole but do not tighten. Make sure the mount is not being held up by the stop screw. Pull the mount(s) to the rear and tighten the base clamping screws firmly. Do not make them squeak. Run the stop screw in to the bottom of the stop hole without over tightening. If a problem with the scope slipping in the rings has been experienced you can clean & apply 640 locktite between the scope tube and clamping surface of the rings. Place the scope in the rings, align the crosshairs to vertical/horizontal position, and set the scope for the most comfortable eye relief. You may be able/need to change stop holes in the gun if it has multiple holes to achieve acceptable eye relief. Tighten the screws of the straps evenly to avoid the crosshairs twisting. Do not over tighten. If they squeak you are going over the limit. Sight gun in. If you can't sight the gun in put the scope in the middle of its range of adjustment and see where the gun shoots @ 10 yards. This information will be needed to figure out what it will take for your application if you aren't in the 85%. All contents of this website are copyright ©2001 by Mac1 Airgun Distributors/McMurray & Son. All rights reserved. |